Residents once again are able to pull up a chair inside Mountlake Terrace’s Hemlock State Brewing Company. The brewpub, located at  23601 56th Ave. W., was recently cleared to reopen up 25% of its total indoor seating capacity for customers.

Under Washington State pandemic guidelines updated earlier this month, which are similar to requirements for outdoor seating, the brewpub is able to use the location’s circulation and air flow to reduce risk. Businesses using these alternatives are still required to follow the industry-specific COVID-19 guidance that includes maintaining table seating at least 6 feet apart from neighboring tables and ensuring that customers and staff always wear cloth face coverings except when consuming food or beverages while seated.

Hemlock Co-founder and Head Brewer Michael Ernst said by email that the brewpub had “utilized our current setup to its maximum to make sure we meet and exceed the guidelines set up by the state.” Hemlock, which opened in May 2019, already had a modern, efficient HVAC system for air exchange. The addition of some recently purchased box fans and carbon dioxide (CO2) monitors — along with the requirement that they also leave entrance doors open – means that local patrons can again enjoy their suds inside the establishment.

Hemlock staff also must constantly monitor the CO2 present indoors to ensure there is an adequate exchange with outdoor air and adjust the seating and air flow as needed. The CO2 monitor must be in the seating area furthest away from the outdoor air source. If the CO2 levels exceed 450ppm (parts per million) for 15 minutes, then guests must be relocated to an open‐air seating option that does not exceed that level. The establishment’s windows and doors also must be opened 10 minutes prior to seating guests and continuously remain open during operating hours plus another 10 minutes after all guests leave.

Mark Dunford, Hemlock’s co-founder and director of operations, said the brewpub’s layout helped ensure they could comply with the updated guidelines. “The fact that we have two doors that can draw air down most of the unit was super advantageous,” he said. In addition, the brewpub manufactures its beer on premise, which can make the interior “quite warm, and it’s good to have the ability to deal with all of the steam and heat,” Dunford said. “So we have a fairly good ventilation system already there because of that.”

He was pleasantly surprised that the cost of purchasing the additional equipment for this specific purpose was cheaper than he had anticipated. “Believe it or not, a CO2 meter is about $150 on Amazon.”

Dunford has heard from similar establishments and restaurants in the area inquiring about the requirements and measures taken to open again for limited indoor seating capacity.

With restrictions on indoor dining during the pandemic, Hemlock’s location — which doesn’t allow for outside heaters or tents – meant the business had “been at the mercy of the weather probably through the worst months that that could have been possible,” Dunford said. “So this has been huge for us.”

Hemlock was able to open up the limited indoor seating again initially Jan. 21. Dunford said that they were rewarded with a substantial increase in business over the weekend, able to restore normal operating hours and also bring back their staff of five, other than owners, to “full capacity.” The brewpub, which has an indoor fire place, was able to maintain a temperature of about 67 degrees inside with the doors open, at a time when the temperature outside was roughly 41 degrees.

Customer feedback had been good over the weekend, Dunford said, and Hemlock staff are recommending that people come dressed appropriately for 60-degree weather. He was grateful for having the option for indoor seating again and that business conditions are no longer impacted by the weather.

Mountlake Terrace resident Dustin DeKoekkoek said he stopped by Hemlock since the recent change, and while he didn’t happen to go inside, he observed the atmosphere – with friends and neighbors gathering — felt closer to normal.

Throughout the pandemic, residents have remained loyal to Hemlock, even when the weather was rainy and sitting inside wasn’t an option. “We have been so well-supported by Mountlake Terrace,” Dunford said. “The neighborhood has really rallied around us; we’ve definitely felt that.”

Hemlock welcomed the Where Ya At Matt food truck for the first time on Jan. 26. The same pandemic guidelines that allow for outside seating at food and drink establishments currently have temporarily opened up food trucks to Mountlake Terrace, Dunford said. He is hopeful they can have similar events in the future — both to support other small businesses and for his customers’ enjoyment. Plans are being discussed to possibly host the same food truck again in March.

— By Nathan Blackwell